Protest Couture: When Fashion Becomes Revolution

A wrap up of some of the year's most iconic (and sustainable) high fashion moments.

This year has been marked by a powerful surge of activism within high fashion, with movements for social justice and climate action taking the stage globally. Designers and activists alike have harnessed the transformative potential of fashion, using their collections, events and runway shows to spark meaningful conversations. 

When we think of sustainability in fashion, our minds often turn to popular fast fashion brands and their vast production networks. However, they are not the sole contributors to the environmental challenges we face on our planet. Sustainability is equally as crucial in the luxury fashion sector and this year we’ve witnessed some of the boldest statements in high fashion to address this issue and champion a more sustainable future. In this discussion, I will highlight three of some of the most notable high fashion examples of the industry taking steps towards change this year, and how these efforts are redefining the future of luxury fashion.

Charli xcx: From a T-shirt to High Fashion

The Met Gala is one of the most highly anticipated events in the fashion world. Attendees, hosts, and designers spend months, even years, preparing their looks for this iconic day. All eyes are fixed on the red carpet—or perhaps we should say green carpet? 2024’s Met Gala theme, “The Garden of Time,” aligned with the museum’s exhibition Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion, brings an enchanting and timeless twist to the event.

Charli xcx and Francesco Risso, the creative director of Marni, took a sustainable approach to this theme. The white floor length, off-the-shoulder, distressed Marni dress worn by Charli was made up of patchwork from upcycled t-shirts from the 1950, ‘60s, and ‘70s according to the Hollywood Reporter. 

“Francesco and I both liked the idea of taking the most simple item—the white T-shirt—and building something extravagant from it,” Charli told Vogue about the look. 

According to Vogue, her dress took 15 seamstresses from the Marni atelier and required 200 hours of meticulous craftsmanship. Marni is an Italian luxury fashion company founded in Milan. This upcycled dress is rich in symbolism surrounding sustainability. The patchwork represents the revival of materials that might have otherwise been discarded and how even the most basic forms of clothing can be turned into high fashion. Not to mention, the distressed details can serve as a visual reminder of the harmful impact and environmental consequences unsustainable practices have on the planet.

Balenciaga: Can the Old Bring in the New?

Balenciaga’s Paris Fashion Week 2024 collection marked a significant shift for the luxury brand, known for its bold, sometimes controversial designs. The century-old brand embraced a more eco-conscious approach under the creative direction of Demna Gvasalia. This season, the collection featured sustainable materials like biodegradable fabrics and prioritized lower-energy dyeing methods alongside reduced water usage in fabric treatments, minimizing the environmental impact of production.

One of the most head-turning moments from the fashion show was its closing. Gvaslaia’s husband, known as BFRND, closed the show wearing a piece created by seven pre-2000s wedding dresses combined. It was a striking yet impressive work to end off the show leaving a lasting impression on attendees.

The Environmental Media Association (EMA), a nonprofit promoting environmental awareness through celebrity endorsements and advocacy, highlighted this change as a significant moment for both Balenciaga and sustainable fashion. 

“It serves as an example that even an old dog can learn a trick or two,” notes the organization.

Balenciaga’s move towards sustainability is a leap forward in the world of luxury sustainability, helping to influence the broader industry towards change.

Stella McCartney: “It’s About Fucking Time”

Stella McCartney’s Winter 2024 collection made a powerful statement with the slogan, "It’s About Fucking Time," reflecting her unwavering commitment to sustainability and protecting the planet.

In collaboration with People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA), McCartney amplified her campaign at New York Fashion Week with an impactful display outside her Soho store. Activists stood outside holding signs that read “It’s About Fucking Time” and “No Leather Ever.”

Through this campaign, McCartney reinforces her brand’s dedication to cruelty-free and sustainable fashion, urging the industry to adopt more ethical practices.

The use of animal products such as fur, reptile skins and other materials have sparked conversation about the mistreatment of animals in captivity and the wastefulness production practices can have.

McCartney’s goal is to create cruelty free luxury fashion and as a result, her collection was produced with 90% conscious materials and does not include any leather, feathers, fur or exotic skins.

Her collection combined with its bold execution makes it inevitably one of fashion's most remembered forms of sustainability activism this year.

“The message is clear; it’s about fucking time fashion ended its senseless killing of animals and our planet,” said McCartney on her website.